1. Pattern Cutting & Toiling

Pear Zoo can help you develop your patterns, no matter the point at which the design is in - from a simple sketch, to a completed pattern that isn’t quite working or an existing sample you would like to reproduce.

We can work with you on designs, sketches and technical designs, and then create your pattern to specification. Once your patterns are complete, we can also make a toile in calico to check the fit.

2. Sampling

A completed pattern then requires a sample to ensure that your design construction works and that it is what you wanted. This will then be used as a reference and production schedule during production. This is also the point at which you can start to cost out your manufacturing. (See section 2 – Costing)

We work closely with you to produce the samples while you are onsite. This means we can work together to fix errors immediately and reduce costs.

There are a multitude of different sampling types and we will work with you to assist in selecting the one that works best for your needs.

3. Grading

Once your sample has been completed and approved, the pattern needs to be graded into the sizes you require.

This means proportionately increasing or decreasing the size of the pattern while retaining the original shape, fit and balance.

4. Costings

There are a number of considerations when calculating the final cost of a garment:

Fabric cost
This depends on the fabric itself and the quantity ordered. This as well as the cost of transportation of the fabric needs to be considered.

Fabric consumption
To calculate your fabric consumption you first need to know the width of the fabric required for each design, as well as how many of each design you can cut from one metre of fabric.

There should always be an allowance for wastage, especially if the garment has binding or strapping. If the calculations are not done beforehand, fabric consumption will need to be calculated once the fabric has been cut which can result in more wastage and higher costs.

Trims & Accessories
All the extras. The cost of things such as thread, labels, elastic, buttons, zips, tags etc. Accessories include items that are no part of the garment, such as hangers, polybags, hygiene stickers etc.

Cut Make and Trim (CMT) charges
These charges are calculated from the sample and will depend on how much of a garment can be produced in an hour. Production costs are per piece; however, the cost may be adjusted based on the quantity of each order.

Other charges
This can include embroidery, heat transfers, tagging and bagging etc.

5. Ordering for Production

Once your samples and graded patterns are complete, and you have scoped your costing, we can book your production. You should always ensure that this booking is done as far in advance as possible to ensure your garments are delivered in time.

Orders should be in lay quantities so the cutting can be as efficient as possible and helps minimise fabric wastage and reduce your costs. Cutting is done in a maximum of 10 layers, so adjust your order accordingly. For example:
You want 10 x small tops, 15 x medium tops and 20 x large tops. Our maximum lay is 10 layers of fabric, which means 1 cut of 10 small tops = 10 tops and 2 cuts of 10 large tops = 20 tops.

However, to complete the 15 medium tops we would have to do 1 lay of 10 and then a new lay of 5 – so it is more cost efficient to change this lay to 10 or 20. The smallest lay quantity is 5 layers, which means this is the minimum order of each item required.

Order dockets need to be clear and concise.  The design names on the order docket must match those on the patterns so there is no chance of error during production.

6. Cut Make and Trim (Production)

Pear Zoo’s Cut, Make and Trim factory requires that you supply us with all the fabrics, trimmings, components etc., and we assemble them into a finished garment.

We cost manufacturing per individual item and don’t charge an hourly fee for manufacturing unless there are special circumstances that have been agreed in advance.


Cutting can account for up to 50% of the total time it takes to manufacture an order. Orders in lay quantities make the cutting more efficient and minimise fabric wastage.

Large cuts can be done over a range of colours, styles and sizes that can then be stored for regular manufacture. This can reduce costs and time on regular manufacturing.

Pattern placement must also be considered. Small patterns are always randomly placed on a garment within certain criteria i.e. stripes must be vertical and straight. If you require more precise placement, your cutting will need to be completed piece-by-piece by hand. Please discuss your requirements with us if this is a necessity for you.


Your pieces are now assembled into a finished garment. The process is as simple or as complex as the design of the garment requires.


This is the final step in which the garment is trimmed of loose ends and checked for quality. The final garments are then folded and packed into plain poly bags.

7. Packing

Additional packing services for items such as stickers and tags etc. can be added on if required. This service has an additional cost which will be discussed in advance and all components are supplied by the client.